Saturday 13 July 2013

Helmut Newton in Budapest

I realise that it's been ages since the last post, but my life at the moment is completely occupied with my internship, London life and socialising, so I haven’t really had the chance to write anything.  However, after a long couple of weeks I have decided to embrace this beautiful weather and spend a day in the garden – the perfect opportunity to write!

  So I have this wall at home that is completely covered in pictures I have collected over the years from magazines like Vogue, I.D., Wonderland, etc.  This wall is completely plastered top to toe in pictures and it’s taken me a bloody long time to do.  It’s a point of conversation and everyone always looks for what’s new every time they go in my room (the beauty of the wall is that they’ll be pictures that have been there for months or years and people are still only just discovering them).  Basically, my wall is fucking legend.

  ...At this point you may be wondering why the hell I am going on about my wall (it’s relevant, I promise).

  People always ask me how I choose the pictures on my wall, and I can honestly never actually give them a coherent answer.  The sources of the majority of my pictures are from fashion magazines or photographers I like, for example Robert Doisneau is a pretty consistent feature.  But the thing is, I absolutely hate it when the pictures look like a fashion picture (this is part of the reason I love Robert Doisneau so much – his photographs are so effortless and manage to perfectly capture spontaneous moments of the people of Paris without seeming contrived).  A picture only makes the wall if it catches my eye and constantly surprises me and just is the perfect fashion photograph...without looking like a fashion photograph.  Up until recently I could not have given you a reason as to why this is.  And then I visited the Helmut Newton exhibition at the Museum of Fine Art in Budapest.  I have always loved his photography, but after visiting this I realised that the man was a bloody genius.  Within seconds of entering the exhibition, there was a quote of his on the wall that perfectly summed up my thoughts when it comes to photography:

“A perfect fashion photo does not look like a fashion photo, but more like a still from a film, a portrait or a memento photo – anyhow at all, just not like a fashion photo.”

It may seem like a simple quote, but YES.  JUST YES.

  The exhibition was split into 3 sections, each representing a major part of his life and career.  First off was Private Property, an intimate series of his work from 1972-1983 that both overlapped and combined fashion, portraiture and erotica.  This work in particular was his most controversial, but it is how he made a name for himself and you can see why.  The photography is sublime.  The whole concept behind each photograph is so clearly “I don’t give a fuck” but each is executed with such nonchalant elegance that it makes the work so acutely unique. 


  The second part of the exhibition was Helmut Newton’s Illustrated which showed photographs from the magazine that he published between 1987 and 1995.  A new magazine was published, according to Newton, “whenever I feel I have something to say with my camera.”  This resulted in editions of Helmut Newton’s Illustrated named Sex and Power and True and False, investigating issues and inspirations that Newton felt the need to portray to the world through a Newton-tinted lens.  The work was similar to Private Property in the way that, despite the widespread publication of these pictures into the mainstream press, the photographs still managed to maintain the level of intimacy that became a signature of Newton’s work.



  The final section of the exhibition was A Gun For Hire, which was a collection of Newton’s photographs from several decades of working for fashion houses such as Versace, YSL, Bluemarine and magazines including Vogue.  It was in this exhibit where Newton’s adaptability was revealed.  He always cited magazines as being his “laboratory” which allowed him to experiment and try out new ideas, but he clearly always kept the client in mind.  From his classic Chanel images to the more controversial Thierry Mugler shots, the true diversity of his images and talent is so clear.




  The exhibition was the perfect summarisation of six decades of fantastic photography.  It gave an insight into the way he lived and breathed his work, and his passion to give the world something new to talk about.  His work commanded attention from everyone and was so undeniably unique that it completely changed the face of fashion photography, paving the way photographers today.  If photography is your thing, the exhibition is amazing.  When it comes to the UK, it’s 100% worth a visit.

...Holly